AJ-V6 Acc Drive

The accessories attached to the standard Jaguar AJ-V6 in S-type trim are all driven by a single multi-grove serpentine belt and include:
Alternator
Water Pump
Power Steering Pump
Air-con Compressor
How many of these you use and where you locate them will of course depend on your own application.
Of the above list, only the Alternator is the minimum required. The water pump is separate from the engine and as such could be replaced by an electric unit which I am considering doing myself in the future.

My resolutions to these components may not suite your particular application but their principles might help inspire your own work arounds.

Alternator

As it is the one accessory that you will require regardless of your application I will cover this one first.
In standard trim the alternator is mounted on the bottom RH side of the block. As with most modern engines the alternator is solid mounted with belt tension being achieved by a separate sprung tensioner.
The images below show its location and and rudimentary dimensions to help you assess whether you have enough space to retain it in its standard location. Do bare in mind the routing of the drive belt when making this decision.

The fuzzy photo indicates approximately 8.5" from crank pulley centre to alternator pulley centre and 10.5" to the edge of the body.

Relocation Options
For my application in the Scimitar the standard alternator position will foul on the chassis leg so I have had to relocate it. This means I am also going to have to think carefully about the routing of the accessories drive belt, but more on that later.
As the standard alternator is bolted straight to the block it is going to be easier to revert to a more traditional style alternator that bolts to a bracket. That will allow me to make my own bracket picking up on whatever convenient tapping's in the block that I can find in its new location. It also means I coul use it to tension the belt in the traditional manner.

The best location I found for the Scimitar was slightly higher up on the LH side of the block. Some people, notably those using an X-type sourced engine, have mounted the original alternator on a plate in front of the engine facing backwards. But I personally prefer my chosen solution.

Fabricating the Mounting Brackets

Lower Bracket
There are a plethora of redundant mounting lugs on the side of the engine to which the new bracket could be bolted. I elected to use a section of thick walled box section steel as the basis for the mount, cutting it to shape after a bit of creative Cardboard Aided Design.

Numerous useable mounting lugs.

Establishing the distance from the front face of the pulley to the mounting lug.

Using the front face of the crank pulley as a datum (via the straight edge box section attached to it)...

...establishing where the corresponding face on the new bracket will need to be and so establishing where the bolt holes need to be drilled.

Establishing the basic shape of the new bracket.

Basic shape transferred to a section of box section steel.

Basic new bracket cut out from box section and bolted to the block.

The two lugs will be braced with an additional triangulating section welded in between them.

Upper Bracket
The intensions is to use an adjustable mounting arm for the top mount to facilitate belt tensioning. To this effect, all that needed fabricating was a simple lug bracket in line with the alternators top mounting lug to attached it to.

Two obvious contenders for the attachment bolts for the upper brackets.

Off-cuts from box section used to fabricate a simple bracket. A straight edge was clamped to the alternator lug to set the lug on the new bracket square.

Painted to make it look pretty.

Mounting the Alternator
With both brackets complete the alternator can be fitted ready for establishing the route of the drive belt.

Both brackets attached (lower bracket is still waiting for its internal bracing).

Fitted.

Belt run clearance check.

Water Pump

Unlike most conventional engines the water pump on the AJ-V6 is an external affair. The standard item in S-type trim is bolted onto the front of the timing cover and actually sits in front of the accessories drive belt. It should be noted that the pump pulley is smooth as it is driven by the back of the belt. If you are using the original water pump as I have here you need to account for this when planning the routing of the drive belt as it will require a reasonably large contact area to ensure good purchase.
The alternative that I will be looking into at a later date is to use and electric water pump. These are becoming increasingly common on mainstream production cars such as BMWs and have proven to be no less reliable than their traditional counterparts; failures usualy being the same sheared impellor shafts.

Externally mounted water pump (ignore belt routing for now).

Pump removed.

Pump pulley/belt contact.

Accessories Drive Belt Selection, Routing & Tensioning

Again this will be down to your particular application. If all you have to drive is the alternator then this will be very easy. In my case I have the Alternator and the Water Pump to be driven by the accessories drive belt. Care must be taken to ensure that the belt is in sufficient contact with each driven pulley (not idler pulleys) to transfer drive without slipping.

The final belt routing. The idler pulleys are in the original locations but they are not necessarily standard items.

Pulley A - If you can use the standard idler and its mounting then do so. On the Scimitar it fouled the steering column. Please see below for my resolution to this.
Pulley B - Standard pulley at standard position.
Pulley C - See next image.

Pulley C - This is the original smooth faced belt tensioner pulley removed from the sprung arm and bolted directly to the block where the tensioner arm was originally fitted. A metal sleeve was required to account for the larger internal bore of the pulleys bearing and a debris guard was cut down to fit under the bolt head.

Pulley A
As mentioned, on the Scimitar the original pulley is too large and fouls on the steering column.
I purchased a second idler pulley 'B' and tried fitting that to the original bracket but it still fouls.
Therefore, using some of the left over rectangular section steel from the engine mount platforms I fabricated a new puley mounting bracket for the smaller pulley wheel moving it closer to the block.

Fouling on steering column (Ignore the sheered off bolt in the mounting lug).

Bracket made up from cut down rectangle section steel. Note the inclusion of the steel tube. This is to account for the sideways twisting loading that will be felt from the belt tension.

As with Pulley C, a metal sleeve will be required to account for the large internal bore of the bearing race.
A spacer is also required to push the bearing forward so that it lines up with the belt run.

Fitted.

The contents of this website are purely a reflection of my own experiences and knowledge gained whilst working on my various projects. Anything you do based on what you have read here is done so entirely at your own risk.
Personally I wouldn't trust someone like me with a lawn mower! You have been warned! Flapper-bat!

AJ-V6 Accessories and Drive

Alternator

The fuzzy photo indicates approximately 8.5" from crank pulley centre to alternator pulley centre and 10.5" to the edge of the body.

The best location I found for the Scimitar was slightly higher up on the LH side of the block. Some people, notably those using an X-type sourced engine, have mounted the original alternator on a plate in front of the engine facing backwards. But I personally prefer my chosen solution.

Numerous useable mounting lugs.

Establishing the distance from the front face of the pulley to the mounting lug.

Using the front face of the crank pulley as a datum (via the straight edge box section attached to it)...

...establishing where the corresponding face on the new bracket will need to be and so establishing where the bolt holes need to be drilled.

Establishing the basic shape of the new bracket.

Basic shape transferred to a section of box section steel.

Basic new bracket cut out from box section and bolted to the block.

The two lugs will be braced with an additional triangulating section welded in between them.

Upper Bracket
The intensions is to use an adjustable mounting arm for the top mount to facilitate belt tensioning. To this effect, all that needed fabricating was a simple lug bracket in line with the alternators top mounting lug to attached it to.

Two obvious contenders for the attachment bolts for the upper brackets.

Off-cuts from box section used to fabricate a simple bracket. A straight edge was clamped to the alternator lug to set the lug on the new bracket square.

Painted to make it look pretty.

Mounting the Alternator
With both brackets complete the alternator can be fitted ready for establishing the route of the drive belt.

Both brackets attached (lower bracket is still waiting for its internal bracing).

Fitted.

Belt run clearance check.

Water Pump

Externally mounted water pump (ignore belt routing for now).

Pump removed.

Pump pulley/belt contact.

Power Steering Pump & Air-con Compressor

I'm afraid that as I have no need for either of these I have no information on them so cannot help you there. Sorry.

Accessories Drive Belt Selection, Routing & Tensioning

The final belt routing. The idler pulleys are in the original locations but they are not necessarily standard items.

Pulley A - If you can use the standard idler and its mounting then do so. On the Scimitar it fouled the steering column. Please see below for my resolution to this.
Pulley B - Standard pulley at standard position.
Pulley C - See next image.

Fouling on steering column (Ignore the sheered off bolt in the mounting lug).

Bracket made up from cut down rectangle section steel. Note the inclusion of the steel tube. This is to account for the sideways twisting loading that will be felt from the belt tension.

As with Pulley C, a metal sleeve will be required to account for the large internal bore of the bearing race.
A spacer is also required to push the bearing forward so that it lines up with the belt run.

Fitted.

Completion

With everything fitted the belt is tensioned in the traditional manner via the alternator sliding bracket.

The belt has good purchase around half of the crank pulley, half of the alternator pully and two thirds of the smooth water pump pulley.
Job done!

AJ-V6 Accessories and Drive

Alternator

The fuzzy photo indicates approximately 8.5" from crank pulley centre to alternator pulley centre and 10.5" to the edge of the body.

The best location I found for the Scimitar was slightly higher up on the LH side of the block. Some people, notably those using an X-type sourced engine, have mounted the original alternator on a plate in front of the engine facing backwards. But I personally prefer my chosen solution.

Numerous useable mounting lugs.

Establishing the distance from the front face of the pulley to the mounting lug.

Using the front face of the crank pulley as a datum (via the straight edge box section attached to it)...

...establishing where the corresponding face on the new bracket will need to be and so establishing where the bolt holes need to be drilled.

Establishing the basic shape of the new bracket.

Basic shape transferred to a section of box section steel.

Basic new bracket cut out from box section and bolted to the block.

The two lugs will be braced with an additional triangulating section welded in between them.

Upper BracketThe intensions is to use an adjustable mounting arm for the top mount to facilitate belt tensioning. To this effect, all that needed fabricating was a simple lug bracket in line with the alternators top mounting lug to attached it to.

Two obvious contenders for the attachment bolts for the upper brackets.

Off-cuts from box section used to fabricate a simple bracket. A straight edge was clamped to the alternator lug to set the lug on the new bracket square.

Painted to make it look pretty.

Mounting the AlternatorWith both brackets complete the alternator can be fitted ready for establishing the route of the drive belt.

Both brackets attached (lower bracket is still waiting for its internal bracing).

Fitted.

Belt run clearance check.

Water Pump

Externally mounted water pump (ignore belt routing for now).

Pump removed.

Pump pulley/belt contact.

Power Steering Pump & Air-con Compressor

I'm afraid that as I have no need for either of these I have no information on them so cannot help you there. Sorry.

Accessories Drive Belt Selection, Routing & Tensioning

The final belt routing. The idler pulleys are in the original locations but they are not necessarily standard items.

Pulley A - If you can use the standard idler and its mounting then do so. On the Scimitar it fouled the steering column. Please see below for my resolution to this.Pulley B - Standard pulley at standard position.Pulley C - See next image.

Fouling on steering column (Ignore the sheered off bolt in the mounting lug).

Bracket made up from cut down rectangle section steel. Note the inclusion of the steel tube. This is to account for the sideways twisting loading that will be felt from the belt tension.

As with Pulley C, a metal sleeve will be required to account for the large internal bore of the bearing race.A spacer is also required to push the bearing forward so that it lines up with the belt run.

Fitted.

Completion

With everything fitted the belt is tensioned in the traditional manner via the alternator sliding bracket.

The belt has good purchase around half of the crank pulley, half of the alternator pully and two thirds of the smooth water pump pulley. Job done!

Upper Bracket
The intensions is to use an adjustable mounting arm for the top mount to facilitate belt tensioning. To this effect, all that needed fabricating was a simple lug bracket in line with the alternators top mounting lug to attached it to.

Mounting the Alternator
With both brackets complete the alternator can be fitted ready for establishing the route of the drive belt.

Pulley A - If you can use the standard idler and its mounting then do so. On the Scimitar it fouled the steering column. Please see below for my resolution to this.
Pulley B - Standard pulley at standard position.
Pulley C - See next image.

As with Pulley C, a metal sleeve will be required to account for the large internal bore of the bearing race.
A spacer is also required to push the bearing forward so that it lines up with the belt run.

The belt has good purchase around half of the crank pulley, half of the alternator pully and two thirds of the smooth water pump pulley.
Job done!